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From Amsterdam to Rome Cruise Post #16 – “Cagliari, Sardinia: The ‘Green City’ of Un-fouled Beaches, D.H. Lawrence’s ‘White Jerusalem’ and Magical Pink Flamingos.”

Karen in Castello, the old city of Cagliari, Sardinia

Karen in Castello, the old city of Cagliari, Sardinia

On the island of Sardinia, 120-miles west of the mainland of Italy, lies its capital city, Cagliari – an Italian municipality. It is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea after Sicily. Although Cagliari has one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean, there is no industry – making it a ‘green city,’ with sprawling, un-fouled beaches, botanical gardens, sixty wildlife preserves and three national parks.

Gates to the entrance into Castello, the old medieval town - Cagliari, Sardinia

Gates to the entrance into Castello, the old medieval town – Cagliari, Sardinia

Cagliari has faced occupation throughout the centuries due to the island’s strategic geography in the Mediterranean. Sardinia and Cagliari came under Roman rule in 238 BC when the Romans defeated the Carthaginians. During the French Revolution, France tried to conquer the city but was defeated by the Sardinians.  After a brief period of autonomous rule, the Allies then heavily bombed the city after the German army took control of it. Once the Germans retreated, the American army then took control of Cagliari and used it as an airbase for the remainder of the war.

Phoenician grinning mask (5th century BCE): National Archaeological Museum - Cagliairi, Sardinia

Phoenician grinning mask (5th century BCE): National Archaeological Museum – Cagliairi, Sardinia

Amsterdam to Rome Cruise Post #9 – ‘Rock Of Gibraltar: The City of Ferocious Macaques and the Wedding of John & Yoko’

Rock of Gibraltar from the Seven Seas Voyager cruise ship

Rock of Gibraltar from the Seven Seas Voyager cruise ship

It was a day at sea on the Regent cruise ship, en route to Valencia, Spain. I awoke to a voice on the PA system alerting guests of the Rock of Gibraltar to our north. I opened the curtains and went out onto my balcony, welcomed by the wondrous view of the 1,398ft high limestone rock situated on the Iberian Peninsula. The gigantic, pale-grey monolith, comprised of crystalline and dolomite minerals, shimmered in the morning light. Wanting a closer view of the Rock, I quickly got dressed and headed for the 13th floor observation deck.

Rock of Gibraltar, Spain

Rock of Gibraltar, Spain

While Gibraltar itself was an extraordinary sight, I was overcome by a sense of awe upon entering the mouth of the Mediterranean. So smooth and calm the sea was, compared to the Bay of Biscay, which had caused three rather restless nights due to rocking and rolling  in six-meter swells. As I looked out to the north, there was the continent of Europe and when I turned to the south, there was Africa (Tangiers, Morocco), with its arid, chocolate-brown Rif mountain range. I experienced a peculiar sensation, being able to see two very different worlds at the same time – only a small expanse of 50 miles of sea between the continents. What with Ebola, HIV and internal conflicts in Africa, it was quite a contrast to behold that mass of land, so peaceful and serene, from the vantage point of the ship.

Amsterdam to Rome Cruise Post #3 – ‘Lorient and Point-Aven, France: The Little City the Nazi’s tried to destroy’

Karen by stone house in Point-Aven

Karen by stone house in Point-Aven

Lorient is located south of Brittany on the Atlantic Ocean. It is a major fishing port that was established by the French East India Company in 1664, chartered by King Louie XIV. Lorient was a former base of the French Navy but then was taken over by the Germans in World War II and became a German U-boat base (Keroman Submarine Base). The base was capable of sheltering 30 submarines undercover. Although allied bombing raids heavily damaged Lorient, the naval base survived through to the end of the war. The Germans held the city until May 1945, refusing to surrender to the American army that surrounded them. Since the allies could not destroy the base and its submarine pens, they decided to flatten the city and the Port of Lorient, in order to cut the supply lines of the U-boat bases. Over 60,000 incendiary bombs were dropped on Lorient. The city was almost completely destroyed.

Where Paul Gauguin painted in Point-Aven

Where Paul Gauguin painted in Point-Aven